![]() ![]() So that was part of our lives growing up. Russell grew up in Houston, and I grew up in Austin. Last week we were out in Austin and Houston, and were just reminded how much we enjoy the experience of eating barbecue. ![]() Wade: It was something we grew up with, and it’s something we missed when we moved to LA. Tell us a little about your upbringing and where you came from… Was barbecue a big part of growing up? So I wipe BBQ sauce from the sides of my mouth, try my best to conceal my excitement and look semi-dignified, while Wade, Russell and I chat about how Horse Thief started and why they chose to open a barbecue joint in Los Angeles. But, while it’s all about what’s on the plate, food doesn’t appear out of thin air it’s about the story behind the hands that make it. In just my first few bites, Horse Thief has become the best thing to ever happen to barbecue in Los Angeles. Horse Thief has consistently huge lines, they routinely run out of meat-sometimes shortly after opening at 11am-and Russell even talks fondly about sleeping next to their smoker. But something about the way Wade and Russell talk about the craft is comforting. I’ve had better barbecue at 76 stations in Texas than I have in my 20+ years living in California. You have to understand: My standards for barbecue are exceptionally high. I’m trying to not look like an animal to the two gentlemen I’ve just met, and I’ve eaten my daily calorie intake by 11 a.m., but I don’t think I care anymore. The barbecue sauce (on the side) is tangy-just sweet enough-and the sides are insanely good. The caramelization of the rub is perfectly crunchy while the meat just melts in your mouth. The ribs literally fall off the bone, and the brisket doesn’t even require a knife to cut. So I order a plate of ribs and brisket (their specialty). It’s 10:48 by now, but I can’t wait anymore. You order at one window, pick up at the next, grab a beer, and sit at communal tables in the middle of a concrete courtyard strung with Christmas lights and umbrellas to shield you from the heat. Co-founders and Austin-to-LA-transplants Wade McElroy and Russell Malixi meet me at the bar and pour me a Saison. It’s gonna be a hot one so I decide that, even though it’s only 10:30am, it’s Friday and I need a beer. I pass through to the other side of the market and walk out on to Horse Thief BBQ’s beautiful, sun-drenched patio. And, as they taught me in Texas, always move towards the smell of smoked meat. My head is spinning but I smell smoked meat coming from the other side. as I walk through the Market, dodging fast-moving patrons picking up their morning coffee or choosing the perfect cut of meat from the local butcher for the upcoming 4th of July weekend. ![]() Once consisting of fishmongers, Jewish delis, and-as their website states-“even one vendor who sold nothing but eggs,” the Market has continued to evolve with the times, and continues to deliver some of the highest quality food experiences you can find in LA. Built in 1917, and in operation ever since, Grand Central Market has continually changed to reflect Los Angeles’ surrounding culture. ![]() A farmer’s market combined with street food from every culture imaginable, the space is experiencing something of a resurgence. I’m looking for Grand Central Market, and stumble into something that, from the outside, looks like an old theatre. Barbecue works the same way-you always find it where you least expect it.Ī few days before I left for Austin, I had an unexpected barbecue experience in Los Angeles while parking in a nondescript garage downtown near Pershing Square. It’s the unexpected places that seem to have the best food. When in Texas, I always choose the most random joint I can find. You take your pick they’re all pretty damn good. The shops come in all shapes and sizes: fancy restaurants, chain restaurants, gas stations, and mom n’ pop shops serving up barbecue in trailers. No joke, I met with a friend who was vegan while she lived in California, but Austin’s barbecue scene changed that real quick. I was in Austin recently, and I felt like I could shower every hour and still feel pretty unsavory.īut one thing’s for sure: it’s impossible to go to Texas and not crave barbecue, regardless of how messy and uncomfortable it may make you feel. In the summer, Texas can feel like you’ve just walked out of your air conditioned home into a steam room where the person controlling the temperature and steam settings hates you it’s stifling. ![]()
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